Collection: Bare Root Rose Collection

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom Afte

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.

Questions About Growing Roses? We’ve Got You Covered.

Whether you’re planting your first bare root rose or adding to a thriving garden, a little know-how makes all the difference. Below you’ll find answers to the most common questions we get about planting, watering, and caring for roses—especially in the South, where sunshine and humidity keep things interesting. These quick tips will help you get your roses off to a strong start and keep them blooming beautifully for years to come.

How Do I Plant Bare Root Roses After They Arrive?

When your bare root roses arrive, it’s exciting—but what you do next determines how well they establish. In Southern zones 7b–8a, where the ground warms early and humidity runs high, timing and soil prep are everything. Bare root roses should be planted as soon as the soil can be worked—usually late winter through early spring—while roots are still dormant and before strong new shoots appear.

Unpack and inspect first. Open your shipment right away and check that the canes are firm and green and the roots moist. If they seem a little dry from travel, soak the roots (not the entire plant) in a bucket of clean, room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and jump-starts root activity.

Prepare the site. Choose a sunny, open location that receives at least six hours of morning sun with some relief from harsh afternoon rays. Dig a hole about 20 inches wide and deep, large enough to let the roots spread without bending. Mix the native soil with aged compost to enrich drainage and add organic matter. Avoid chemical fertilizers right now—fresh roots burn easily.

Planting depth matters. In the South, plant the graft union (the swollen area where canes join the rootstock) at soil level or about 1–2 inches below the soil surface to protect it from heat and encourage strong basal growth. Form a small cone of soil in the bottom of the hole, set the rose on top, and spread the roots evenly over the mound. Backfill halfway, firm lightly, water well to settle soil, then finish filling the hole.

Once planted, water deeply so moisture reaches the lower roots. Add a 2–3-inch layer of mulch such as shredded pine bark or straw, keeping it a couple of inches away from the canes to prevent rot. For the first few weeks, keep soil evenly moist but not soggy; bare root roses need steady hydration to establish.

As new growth appears, begin a light feeding schedule with a balanced organic fertilizer every four to six weeks. Prune away any weak or damaged tips once strong shoots emerge.

Handled with care and planted correctly, your bare root roses will settle in quickly—rewarding you with vigorous growth and blooms that last well into your long southern growing season.

Where Is the Best Place to Plant a Rose Bush in the South?

In the humid South, choosing the right spot for a rose bush can make all the difference between a thriving plant and one that struggles. Roses love sunshine, warmth, and airflow—but they also need a break from intense afternoon heat. The ideal location offers six or more hours of direct sun, with morning light and dappled afternoon shade. East- or southeast-facing beds are perfect because they dry early dew quickly and shield blooms from scorching late-day rays that can fade or crisp petals.

Good air circulation is essential in humid climates where fungal diseases like black spot and mildew can spread fast. Avoid tight corners, privacy fences, or dense hedges that trap moisture. Instead, choose an open spot with a gentle breeze—enough to keep leaves dry but not so windy that stems whip around.

Soil quality is equally important. Southern clay can be heavy and slow to drain, while sandy soil may dry out too quickly. The sweet spot is rich, loamy soil that drains well but holds consistent moisture. Before planting, loosen the area at least 12–18 inches deep and mix in compost, pine bark fines, or aged manure to improve texture and nutrient content. A slightly acidic pH (around 6.2–6.5) suits most modern garden roses beautifully.

Because Southern rains can come hard and fast, avoid low-lying areas where water collects. Raised beds, mounded rows, or gentle slopes prevent root rot and keep oxygen flowing to the roots.

Spacing also matters more in humid air. Give each rose at least three feet of breathing room from its neighbors to promote airflow and make pruning easier. Think about placement near walkways or garden edges where you’ll see the blooms up close—regular deadheading and feeding are simpler when you can reach them easily.

For added beauty and pest control, plant companion herbs like lavender, rosemary, or catmint, which love similar conditions and discourage aphids. If replanting in an old rose bed, replace some soil or rotate locations to avoid lingering fungal spores.

In short, the best place for a rose bush in zones 7b–8a is sunny in the morning, shaded in late afternoon, open to airflow, and well-drained underfoot. Give your roses that, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth, glossy foliage, and armloads of fragrant blooms all season long.

Do Roses Do Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Whether roses grow better in pots or in the ground depends on your goals, your climate, and how much time you want to spend tending them. In warm, humid southern zones like 7b and 8a, most roses thrive best planted directly in the ground, where roots can spread deeply and soil temperatures stay more stable through the long growing season. But containers absolutely have their place—especially for growers who like flexibility or who garden in limited spaces.

Roses in the ground enjoy the advantage of consistent moisture and insulation. Once established, their roots reach deep layers of soil that hold water even during hot spells. This helps them handle southern heat far better than potted roses, which can dry out within a single afternoon. In-ground plants also develop stronger, more resilient root systems, allowing them to bloom more freely and survive winter cold snaps with minimal protection. If you have the space and decent drainage, the ground is the most natural and forgiving option.

That said, potted roses can thrive when cared for attentively. Containers work beautifully for patios, courtyards, and areas with poor native soil or limited sunlight. They also make it easier to move plants for ideal sun exposure—morning sun and partial afternoon shade are perfect for the South. Choose large containers (at least 18–20 inches wide and deep) made of materials that insulate roots, such as glazed ceramic or double-walled resin. Drainage holes are non-negotiable; roses hate sitting in waterlogged soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix with compost and perlite for aeration, and fertilize every 4–6 weeks during active growth since nutrients leach quickly from pots. Water deeply and often—sometimes daily in midsummer. In winter, move containers to a protected area or mulch heavily around the base to shield roots from freezes.

In short, roses perform best in the ground for longevity, drought tolerance, and lower maintenance, but containers are ideal if you want portability, decorative impact, or to test new varieties before committing them to a permanent spot. The key to success in either case is consistent water, rich soil, and at least six hours of southern sunshine.

How Do You Overwinter Potted Roses in the South?

Even in the mild South, potted roses need a bit of extra care to make it comfortably through winter. While in-ground roses benefit from the natural insulation of soil, containers are more exposed to temperature swings and drying winds. The key to successful overwintering in zones 7b–8a is protecting roots from extreme cold while avoiding soggy conditions that invite rot.

Start by easing off fertilizer in early fall, about six weeks before your first expected frost. This helps your roses slow down and prepare for dormancy. Keep watering until the first hard freeze—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil—but avoid oversaturating the pot. Once leaves begin to yellow and drop, you can remove any remaining foliage to discourage fungal issues.

Next, decide where and how to shelter your containers. In most Southern areas, you won’t need a heated greenhouse, but you do want a spot that buffers temperature swings. A protected porch, unheated garage, or along a south-facing wall often works beautifully. Group pots together and wrap them with burlap, straw, or frost cloth to insulate the sides. You can also slide the entire pot into a larger one and fill the gap with mulch or leaves for extra warmth.

If your pots are too large to move, mound pine bark or shredded leaves around the base of each container, then cover the soil surface with 3–4 inches of mulch to shield the crown. During mild Southern winters, the soil may not freeze solid, but repeated freeze-thaw cycles can still stress roots—so consistent insulation matters more than heavy covering.

Check pots every few weeks and water sparingly. Even dormant roses need a bit of moisture to prevent root desiccation, especially during dry winter spells. When early spring arrives and nights stay above 40 °F, gradually remove the coverings and reintroduce your roses to full sun. A light pruning and fresh feeding will help them wake up strong.

In short, overwintering potted roses in zones 7b–8a is mostly about moderation: protect the roots, keep them barely moist, and give them a slow transition back to warmth. With these steps, your container roses will burst back into bloom as soon as spring settles in.

What Are Bare Root Roses, and How Are They Different from Potted Roses?

Bare root roses are exactly what they sound like — rose plants sold without soil around their roots. They’re dug from the growing fields while dormant, carefully cleaned, trimmed, and shipped while still “asleep.” Instead of being planted in soil, their roots are wrapped in moisture-retaining material such as sawdust, peat, or paper to keep them from drying out during transport.

The biggest difference between bare root and potted roses is timing and growth stage. Bare root roses are planted while dormant, usually between late winter and early spring, when temperatures are cool and the plant can settle in before the heat of summer. Potted roses, by contrast, are grown in containers and sold with an established root system already growing in soil. They can be planted almost any time of year, but they cost more because of the extra labor and growing time involved.

For Southern gardeners in zones 7b–8a, bare root roses are an especially smart choice. Our winters are mild enough that you can plant early, and the roots have time to establish before the intense heat of summer. By the time warm weather hits, your bare root roses will have settled deep into the soil and can handle the humidity much better than container-grown plants that were transplanted later.

Bare root roses also give you more variety and stronger performance. Because they’re easier to ship and store, growers can offer rare or newly released cultivars not always found in garden centers. Once planted, bare root roses tend to develop a stronger, more natural root system than potted roses that have been confined to a small container.

That said, potted roses have their advantages if you want instant color or if planting season has passed. They’re a great option for beginners or for small-space gardens, but in the South’s humid climate, they sometimes need more frequent watering and careful acclimation when moved outdoors.

In short: bare root roses offer more selection, affordability, and long-term vigor, while potted roses offer instant gratification. If you can plant during the cool season and give them a good start, bare root roses will reward you with stronger roots, better growth, and more abundant blooms for years to come.

When Should I Plant Bare Root Roses in My Zone?

The best time to plant bare root roses in zones 7b and 8a is during the late winter to very early spring window—after your soil has thawed but before new buds start to swell. In much of the South, that usually means late February through early April, depending on your local weather patterns. Planting during this cool, mild period gives your roses time to establish strong roots before the summer heat sets in.

Bare root roses are dormant when they arrive—no leaves, no blooms, just living canes and healthy roots. That dormancy is your advantage. Once planted in cool soil, the roots can grow freely without competing with foliage for energy. By the time warm weather wakes the plant, it already has a solid foundation underground, ready to push up vigorous spring growth.

If you’re unsure whether it’s time, the soil will tell you. You can safely plant when the ground is workable and consistently above 45 °F. In the South’s unpredictable late-winter weather, don’t worry if you get a light frost after planting; dormant roses tolerate brief cold snaps very well. Just avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged, which can suffocate new roots.

For gardeners in humid regions, this early planting window also helps reduce disease pressure. Roses planted too late, when nights are warm and damp, can struggle with black spot and mildew before they’ve had a chance to strengthen. Early planting sets them up to face humidity with mature foliage and better air circulation.

If your roses arrive before the ground is ready, store them temporarily in a cool, dark place such as a garage or cellar. Keep the roots wrapped in their original packing and lightly moistened—never soaked—for up to a week or two. You can also “heel in” bare roots by covering them with damp mulch or soil until planting conditions improve.

In short, plant bare root roses while they’re still dormant, ideally in late winter or early spring. Cool days and warm soil will help them settle in, and by the time summer arrives, they’ll be bursting with new growth, glossy leaves, and the promise of a long, flower-filled season ahead.

How Do I Know if My Bare Root Rose Is Alive and Healthy?

When a bare root rose first arrives, it can be hard to tell whether it’s alive—after all, it looks like a bundle of brown canes and roots. But appearances can be deceiving. Roses go fully dormant in winter, so the lack of leaves or buds doesn’t mean it’s dead. There are a few simple ways to check the health of your plant and set it up for success.

1. Examine the canes.

Gently scratch the surface of a cane with your fingernail or a small knife. If you see a layer of fresh green tissue underneath, the rose is alive and healthy. Canes should feel firm and slightly flexible, not brittle or hollow. A little dryness on the surface is normal after shipping, but if all canes snap easily or appear shriveled, the rose may have been stressed in transit.

2. Check the roots.

Healthy bare root rose roots are fibrous, plump, and tan to dark brown—never mushy or slimy. A mild earthy smell is fine, but sour or rotten odors indicate decay. If roots look dry, soak them in room-temperature water for 12–24 hours before planting. This rehydrates the tissue and often revives slightly wilted stock.

3. Watch for signs of growth.

After planting, be patient. In zones 7b–8a, bare root roses typically break dormancy within 4–6 weeks, depending on temperature. Tiny red or green buds along the canes are a clear sign of life. If you don’t see activity right away, don’t panic—cool nights can delay bud break, but warm soil will eventually wake the plant.

4. Give it the right environment.

Even a live rose can fail if it’s planted into cold, soggy ground or left exposed to drying wind. Choose a sunny, well-drained site and keep the soil consistently moist (not waterlogged). In the South’s humid climate, proper airflow helps prevent fungal issues during early growth.

In short, a living bare root rose will show green beneath the bark, firm roots, and emerging buds once temperatures rise. With patience, good soil, and steady moisture, those “sticks” soon transform into vigorous, leafy plants ready to bloom their first Southern spring.

How Long Does It Take Bare Root Roses to Bloom After Planting?

Bare root roses may look like little more than sticks when they arrive, but they’re packed with potential. Once planted correctly, most varieties begin producing leaves and shoots within four to six weeks, and you’ll often see your first blooms by late spring or early summer—typically about 10 to 12 weeks after planting.

The exact timing depends on the variety, weather, and how quickly your soil warms. In Southern zones 7b–8a, you have the advantage of a long, gentle spring. That means your roses wake up early and establish fast. For example, roses planted in late February or March often leaf out by mid-April and reward you with your first flush of flowers by May.

When bare root roses start growing, their energy goes first into the root system. During those first few weeks, you might not see much happening above the soil—but beneath the surface, roots are spreading, anchoring, and preparing to feed the new canes. Patience at this stage pays off. Resist the urge to overfeed or prune early; let the plant direct its energy where it’s needed most.

Once foliage begins to form, your rose will enter a rapid growth phase. You can gently start a light feeding schedule with an organic or slow-release fertilizer once you see new leaves. Steady moisture and early-season sunshine will keep the momentum going. Because Southern humidity can encourage fungal growth, water early in the day and focus irrigation at the base of the plant, not on the leaves.

Not all roses bloom at the same speed. Hybrid teas and floribundas often flower within two to three months of planting. English and shrub roses may take a little longer, especially if they’re focused on building structure first. Don’t be discouraged if your first blooms are smaller or fewer than expected—those early flowers mark the beginning of years of stronger, more abundant flushes to come.

By midsummer, a well-established bare root rose in the South will be blooming freely, with new buds forming continuously until fall. With time, each season brings earlier leaf-out, longer flowering periods, and deeper color as the plant matures.